Living

These Hole-in-the-Wall Restaurants are Worth Looking For

Merriam-Webster describes hole-in-the-wall as “a small and often unpretentious out-of-the-way place (such as a restaurant).” The three dining spots we visited definitely have all the qualities that constitute the term that gets thrown around a lot. Pukot Kitchen, DIMES Bistro+Coffee, and Tales & Feelings all have unusual locations, which makes them worth checking out. Well, apart from their food of course! We’ll get to that in a bit.

I can’t cook for my life—that’s my boyfriend’s area of expertise—but I sure do love to eat. I’m an avid consumer of good food, but I am not well-acquainted with the science behind it. Instead of breaking down the different flavors that made my tongue do the happy dance—if I did, I’d sound like a broken record annoyingly repeating, “It’s so good” every time—I’d like to share the stories behind these dining gems.

Pukot Kitchen’s Naan “Non” Pizzas

It’s A Family Affair

Restaurant: Pukot Kitchen
Location: The Flying Fish Hostel in El Dorado Subdivision, Banilad
Must-tries: Shepherd’s Pie, Moule’s Mariniere, Naan “Non” Pizzas, Portuguese Custard Tarts
You will return for: The friendly service, soulful food, intimate ambience, and lovely people

I’ve been to Pukot Kitchen twice already prior to our visit for this feature. I had to find my way during my first visit because they have no signage for the restaurant. I don’t want you to be like me, so let me give you instructions. To get there, take the El Dorado Subdivision entrance that’s right after Banilad Town Center (BTC), which will be on the right side if you’re coming from BTC. Keep going until you reach the end of the road (cue: Boyz II Men) where you will find on your right The Flying Fish Hostel. If you feel like you’re trespassing, you’re in the right place. Park at the basketball court if you’re driving.

Daisy Zambrano and Joey Villahermosa of Pukot Kitchen | Portuguese Custard Tarts

Pukot Kitchen is owned and run by a single mother and her four children: Emily Wilson, Jules Villahermosa, Joelle Renee “Joey” Villahermosa, Jack Zambrano, and Daisy Zambrano whom I found out was a student of a batch mate when she was in grade school. (I had to let that sink in.)

Emily is the matriarch and head honcho. Her daughters Joey and Daisy are General Manager and Marketing & Events Officer respectively, Jack’s shift is in the evening to man the bar and service, and their eldest Jules supports the family in his own way, and comes around when he can. Emily fell in love with the size and location of the space. She immediately knew she wanted to open a restaurant there and name it something related to fish because of the hostel, hence Pukot. It’s Cebuano for “net,” so it’s like they’re fishing for or catching their customers—with consent of course.

FROM LEFT Brebajo de Paco and Spicy Cebuanos | Rigatonni Alla Vodka e Chorizo

The family’s relationship with food stems from Emily, who has always had an entrepreneurial spirit, making and selling her own cured meats for twenty years; you’ll find her homemade meats in their breakfast menu. According to Joey and Daisy, their mother simply loves to cook. In a nutshell, they describe their menu as “European comfort food with a twist” consisting of European staples that the family grew up with. The Shepherd’s Pie felt like a warm embrace during a harsh, cold day, while the Chilean mussels swimming in the rich, creamy sauce were the pleasant surprise I needed in this sometimes-mundane world. Make sure to dip that focaccia in that sauce too, because it’s just perfection. In addition to their savory offerings, their cocktail selection is diverse, unique, and definitely worth exploring. Signature concoctions with names such as Spicy Cebuanos and Brebaje de Paco are enough to pique anyone’s interest.

The Filipino-industrial interiors were designed by Amin Elbahraoui, father of Cebuano personality, Blinky de Leon. It’s a balance of homey and modern with a lot of recycled materials and pieces of art filling up the walls. Having this gallery of sorts is the family’s own way of supporting local artists who can sell their artwork freely in the restaurant. Yes, that’s right; the restaurant does not get a cut from any sale.

Pukot Cheeseburger | FROM LEFT Garden of Lys and Watermelon Smash

The initial peg for Pukot to be a family restaurant didn’t fly right away. They opened in February 2020 and had to close the next month due to the lockdown. They re-opened around the time “you’d be judged if you went out” in the words of Daisy, the youngest and the most generous with her words. Nobody showed up for weeks, and the family relied heavily on deliveries. It was a rough start but things started picking up when a friend of theirs rented out the entire space for his intimate birthday dinner party. This friend is, let’s just say, well-connected, and influenced change in Pukot’s target market. Word got around and individuals who were willing to return and spend for quality grub started coming in.

Today, Pukot transforms with its crowd as the day unfurls with their “come as you are” philosophy. During the day, it’s a brunch place where families gather. In the afternoon, it’s a café where people come with their laptops to work or study. When the sun sets, it becomes a hangout for couples and friends to enjoy dinner and cocktails after. No matter the hour, the intimacy and warmth of Pukot is present all throughout, that they might as well put a “Welcome Home” mat at the door.

DIMES’ Pork Chop with Creamy Mushroom Sauce

The One with Two Buds and a Business

Restaurant: DIMES Bistro+Coffee
Location: 2F Toyota Mabolo
Must-tries: Herb Pork Chop, Carbonara, Kori Koffee
You will return for: The Herb Pork Chop (specifically, yes), casual vibe, location accessibility, budget-friendly prices

Imagine my confusion when Google Maps told us we’ve reached our destination when we got to the Toyota showroom in Mabolo. Google was right though. You need some level of confidence and a friend’s recommendation to know you’re not lost, so let me be that friend by giving you the assurance you need if you do decide to go.

Two friends bonded by basketball are behind DIMES Bistro+Coffee. Geno Gallarde and Paul Joven were varsity basketball teammates in the University of San Carlos, and remained friends since. They were always exercising their entrepreneurial muscle by having business ventures both separately and together while living the corporate life. Both have similar career trajectories with experience in sales and marketing in various big companies.

Ultimate Smash Burger | Geno Gallarde and Paul Joven of DIMES Bistro + Coffee

Paul was General Manager of Toyota Mabolo from 2017 to 2019. He then returned to his hometown in Butuan and ran a catering business there. Meanwhile, Geno was two years into building his apparel manufacturing business, RAD Chameleon Custom Apparel Inc., which is still related to his love for basketball. His business was forced to a halt at the onset of the pandemic, when basketball tournaments weren’t allowed anymore. This gave him free time to help his mom with her empanada business, Grace’s Homemade Empanadas, which rekindled Geno’s passion for food and dream of opening a café. At 10, he already knew how to bake a cake; the kitchen was his playground. He credits his mom as his biggest influence when it comes to his love for food. She was always known to cook good food, which Paul was more than familiar with whenever he would visit Geno’s home. The fateful turn of events encouraged Geno to get in touch with Paul, and things started to unfold for the better. The space became available when the previous commissary left, so they took the opportunity to open DIMES in October 2020.

Salisbury Steak

The name is rooted in basketball and reflects the two friends’ playing style. “Dimes” is slang for “assists,” and Geno shared that he and Paul don’t really play to score, but rather prefer to assist or “drop dimes.” The subtlety and neutrality of the name makes it versatile, allowing their café to possibly grow into a sports bar. For Geno and Paul, the possibility is not far.

“No-frills comfort food” is how they describe their menu. Developing it was a gradual process as they only started with one main dish, the Herb Pork Chop. They repeatedly gushed over their pork chop, comparing it to some restaurants I dare not name here. We finally got to try it, and it did not disappoint one bit. Personally, I almost never pick pork chop from a restaurant’s menu because it’s usually dry and tough. DIMES’ pork chop is an exception. It’s tender, succulent, and oh so satisfying. Their traditional carbonara is also worth noting. All I can say is, it’s legit. They slowly built their menu, adding more of Geno and his wife Kaye’s personal favorites from their travels and food trips. Paul would contribute in tasting and final approval of dishes.

Carbonara | Caesar’s Salad

Geno and Paul also pride themselves in their friendly price points that both students and professionals can enjoy. This also makes it easier for their already captured market of car sales agents to treat their clients at the café. With the streamlined and contemporary interiors designed by Marissa Laude and Joel Ong, DIMES is also conducive for working.

The two friends who call each other “bb” for “basketball buddies”—I know, it’s so cute—don’t make the conscious effort to be different and stand out. Instead, they do their own thing the best way they know how. Paul takes care of the more administrative side of things like purchasing and finance, while Geno takes care of the food and marketing. Their complementary partnership is a success story in the arena of doing business with friends. They are currently full-time with DIMES, while taking care of their own families. These 30-ish guys’ guys believe that no matter where you are, if your food is good, people will find their way to you. True enough, I’ve already made plans to return for the pork chop and get a taste of their other dishes.

Tales and Feelings’ Angus Sirloin Steak

A Slice of Life

Restaurant: Tales & Feelings
Location: 2nd floor, M. Diaz Building, F. Ramos St.
Must-tries: Angus Sirloin Steak, Kepta Duona, Bruschetta, Seared Gensan Tuna
You will return for: The excellent service, food that’s luxurious yet full of heart at fair prices, prettiest interiors

Our call time was at 8:00 AM, which was 30 minutes before my daily alarm, and it was a wet morning. I didn’t pee in my bed or anything, but I mean it was drizzling a little bit that day, making it a challenge to wake up and get that bread as Gen Z-ers would say. What pulled my lazy ass off of bed was my prolonged interest in Tales & Feelings.

Judging by the photos posted on social media, here was a fancy-looking restaurant situated in a not-so-fancy part of the city. Tales & Feelings is at the second floor of an old building in Ramos, and the stairs leading up to the restaurant is right beside Ho Ngohiong. It’s paid parking by the road, which can get a little tricky especially when it’s full, but with a bit of luck, you’ll have no problems. Also, with what’s waiting for you at Tales & Feelings, you won’t mind this slight conundrum at all.

Julian Prosevicius of Tales and Feelings | Bruschetta

A soft-spoken Julian Prosevicius greeted us at the foot of the steps and extended his regrets as his wife Kim couldn’t join us. She was back home taking care of their 3-month-old baby girl. Julian made it clear to me to highlight Kim in this article because in his words, “none of this would be possible without her.” Obviously, I melted. The couple tied the knot at the height of the pandemic last year. Fast forward to mid-April this year, they opened Tales & Feelings, along with their chef and Kim’s brother, Chef Elso “Third” Almodiel III. However, it was a more bitter than sweet opening, as the family went through an unimaginable loss when Kim and Chef Third’s father passed away only about a week after. Kim emphasized, “We dedicate Tales & Feelings to my dad who was very supportive and proud of us. It’s a shame that he was not able to see the final look of the restaurant and enjoy the food and service himself, but we’re very sure he’s very happy looking at his kids now.” Kim’s other brother, John, also serves at the restaurant. This painful event pushed the family to pour everything into Tales & Feelings with the name taking on a more profound and purposeful meaning. Life truly has a way of playing its tricks, but the family persevered and refused to stumble.

While constructing the place, which used to be an ice cream shop, Julian shared that they had to get their hands dirty and do the nitty-gritty work on their own. Kim even painted the walls herself while she was pregnant. According to Julian, there was a lot of swearing and crying, but everything worked out in the end. From the interiors to their menu, everything is a labor of love.

Egg’s Royale | Kepta Duona

Now for their love story. Julian and Kim met in 2016 in London when they were both working for Jason Atherton, the Michelin-starred culinary giant behind The Pig & Palm and many other restaurants around the globe. Julian had been working with Jason on and off for six years at this point. Jason called to tell him they had a VIP guest coming in, which was Kim. Fun fact: Kim is the niece of Irha, Jason’s wife. Julian shared, “Never in my life would I ask a guest out, you know. But I was asking her, ‘It’s your birthday, what are you gonna do next?’ She said she was probably gonna go home and I said that was boring. And she said, ‘What do you propose?’ I said, ‘I’m finished now, let’s go for a drink.’” I mean. If you could hear the audio recording of this part of the interview, I let out stupid giggles and ‘awwws.’ I met Kim once during the opening of The Pig & Palm, and I can’t forget how nice she was to me. I was working that night, but I took a break. She was hiding herself from other guests too, and started a conversation with me. She was super nice and Julian’s super nice, and I just wish they live happily ever after because they are the cutest.

Back to their brain child–or should I say heart child? Okay, too much. Julian and Kim named their restaurant Tales & Feelings because they want to tell stories with their food and service in hopes of guests having an emotional connection with their dining experience. Their menu selections are heavily influenced by their travels and Julian’s extensive background in the food and beverage (F&B) industry, particularly with fine dining. They develop their menu with the help of Chef Third who used to be a chef at a cruise ship. Julian expressed his desire to finally open a restaurant he could call his own after years of working for someone else. He started in the F&B industry when he was 16 and landed a job with Jason Atherton at 18 in 2010, when Jason left Gordon Ramsay to open his flagship restaurant, the Michelin-starred Pollen Street Social.

Seared Gensan Tuna | Pulled Pork Burger

Julian defines their menu as a mixture of international dishes with a Southeast Asian twist with selections like Angus Sirloin Steak, Seared Gensan Tuna, bruschetta, and Kepta Duona. Eating steak and raw fish at 10 in the morning wasn’t ideal, but it’s all love. No complaints here at all. Their bruschetta was the best I’ve ever had, and their Kepta Duona, which is essentially fried rye bread with cheese, was the bomb. I haven’t tasted anything like it before. That’s probably because it’s a traditional snack from Lithuania, where Julian is originally from. Everything was delectable. Although their offerings have been a hit, Julian tweaks the menu almost every week to avoid getting boxed in. He wants to continue evolving and making luxury accessible as they also offer catering services for intimate set-ups.

Through the lowest of valleys and the highest of mountains, human resilience transcends when there is love. The family behind Tales & Feelings is an example of this. With their passion for food that inspires and service that surpasses expectations, Julian, Kim, Chef Third, and John have only just begun.

Live, Love, and Eat

For two straight days, I stuffed my face with food. My GERD acted up, but it was totally worth it. Getting to know the names and faces behind these hole-in-the-wall discoveries was truly inspiring because they are all fruits of the pandemic, ironically enough. Some even experienced deeper heartaches. All in all, the spirit of entrepreneurship and starting over is alive in these individuals, and it is an honor to tell their stories. Their food fills the soul with all the good things about life and turns a wretched day into a spectacular one. That is the magic of good food made with love.

Photography Ezekiel Sullano

In the cover photo are (clockwise from left) DIMES’ Caesar Salad, Pukot Kitchen’s Salmon + Caper Sauce, and Tales and Feelings’ Bruschetta.

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About Micah Almazan Canga

Micah collects tattoos and is on a full body suit journey, but is terrified of the dentist. Music is a constant in her life, but she’s not a master at playing an instrument or singing. She loves the beach, but can’t swim. She’s a Leo but abhors writing about herself. Her writing voice is either painfully neurotic or deliciously sarcastic depending on what floats your boat. As a Cebu City lumad, Micah is slowly growing into becoming a (music) scene tita who silently judges everything and everyone with love.

author-avatar

About Micah Almazan Canga

Micah collects tattoos and is on a full body suit journey, but is terrified of the dentist. Music is a constant in her life, but she’s not a master at playing an instrument or singing. She loves the beach, but can’t swim. She’s a Leo but abhors writing about herself. Her writing voice is either painfully neurotic or deliciously sarcastic depending on what floats your boat. As a Cebu City lumad, Micah is slowly growing into becoming a (music) scene tita who silently judges everything and everyone with love.

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